Dancing rpm needle

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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 06:27 PM
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Default Dancing rpm needle

I have a odd problem and need a opinion on it so the vehicle starts right up but has a really rough idle it idles low around 600rpm than will idle high around 1400-3000 is the highest I have seen it jump to but once it’s in gear and driving if I wear to put the pedal to the floor it’s like I was pushing the pedal up and down repeatedly and the weird part about the whole thing is the problem just goes away after driving for a bit
 
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 07:01 AM
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What year, and what engine?

If it is only when the engine is cold it could be that once in closed loop the problem is corrected. If that is the case look at things that the computer controls once in closed loop such as ignition timing or fuel injection timing. Some of the ground connections are "relocated" when the computer goes into closed loop so check the grounding of the ignition coil(s) etc.
 
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 12:36 PM
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Default Dancing rpm needle

It’s. A 2000 3.4L v6 so you think it’s an ecu or grounding issue?
 
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by theclappedgrandam
It’s. A 2000 3.4L v6 so you think it’s an ecu or grounding issue?
another thing to add is the problem goes away after my abs, parking brake and handbrake warning light come on I also have no codes showing on my obd2 reader
 
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 03:38 PM
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It sounds like once the ECU takes over so that it is in closed loop everything works fine, although you have an ABS issue that is utrning on your brake etc. lights.

Because a lot of the ECU control functions are performed by swithing the ground connection on/off so look for a ground connection that is related to the ECU controlled funtions (ignition timing, injection timing) that would not be completing the function circuit before the ECU takes over. I believe the 2000 3.4 is like the 3.8 and later 3.4 engines with ignition coils for each cylinder located on the top/back of the engine, There are several wires that connect to that module so look the over for indication of frays or melting. I would need to look at the wiring diagram to get any more specific.
 
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 04:26 PM
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Took a look the the cables connected to the ignition coils disconnected them looked for frays didn’t find any reconnected everything and took it for a ride and it was the worst it’s been 5 minutes in I decided to take it back home pulled it into the driveway put it in park and I let it idle well I ran a obd2 on it nothing looked wrong and right before I went inside it idled to low and shut off and the oil light came on and the battery light came on and I have no clue where to go next
 
Old Jun 30, 2024 | 07:20 AM
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Once the engine shuts off the oil and battery light will always come on.

If moving the cables made it worse you are probably on the right track. Check the connectors for corrosion (both the cable and the module). If it will run see if moving one of the cables makes it act better/worse and digg in from there.

If it will not run try changing out the ignition coil module with a different one, they should be easy to find at your local salvage yard.
 
Old Jul 9, 2024 | 10:06 PM
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Default Ignition coils

I plan on replacing them this Friday but if that doesn’t work do you have any other ideas what it could be
 
Old Jul 10, 2024 | 07:19 AM
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Only to continue investigation of the wiring as you indicated that unplugging and plugging in which required moving the wires affected the problem. Broken or nearly broken wires are not common but they do happen.
 
Old Aug 2, 2024 | 11:06 PM
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Default Problem solved

Wasn’t going to reply but thought I would let you know I solved the problem it end up being either the ignition coils or the ignition control module as I changed both at the same time thanks for the input I appreciate the advice
 



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